Sleeping Vishnu (Bishnu) at Budhanilakantha Temple and Nagarkot (Tuesday, 14th August 2012 and returned on Wednesday, 15th August 2012)
So in the morning of 15th August we all nineteen in the group along with Badri, Kedar and couple of other crews started out in bus to visit Sleeping Vishnu and Nagarkot. This was dual purpose visit, first to visit the temple of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu and then to go to Nagarkot with an altitude of about 7000 feet for a brief trekking for a couple of hours and for acclimatization. As we were to start of our Kailash Parikram trip the very next day we have been given a Diamox tablet to reduce the effect of altitude sickness. As mentioned earlier daily consumption of a minimum of three liters of water is must throughout the trip.
Budha Nila Kantha literally means Old Blue Throat (Neck). This is not to be confused with Nilakanda, who is Sri Mahadeva. This Budhanilkantha Temple is located within Kathmandu Valleys at the base of Shivapuri Hill. This is about eight miles to the north of Kathmandu city.
This is a seventeen feet long sculpture of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu in sleeping pose in a tank of about forty three feet long. It is believed to be made in 500 AD and hence more than one thousand five hundred years old. This Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is Jalasayan that is lying in water with four hands and with all Vishnu Chinhas. The traditional signs of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu are: Sankhu (The Conch shell), Chakra (The Disk), Gadha (The Club) and Padma (The Lotus). Here Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is lying on the coiled Anantha Sesha (The thousand hooded serpent Anatha literally meaning endless) with eleven hoods (we can imagine how impracticable it is to make a thousand hoods). Devotees are supposed to touch on the feet of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu and worship. It is beyond words to express the gratification we receive from visiting and offering our obeisance to this open temple. There is no sanctum sanctorum for this idol. This sleeping Vishnu is open to all at all the times.
Sleeping Vishnu is not a new concept. But other than the one in Thirumeyyam of Tamilnadu I have not heard of any other temple with deity as sleeping Vishnu. But definitely this is the largest one and carved in black rock. Vishnu is always sleeping. I will narrate a story here. Once all the Devas (the gods of heaven) and great Seers of heaven were debating who among the Trinities (Thrimurthis) are the best. They could not really come to a conclusion. So they entrusted Bhrighu, one of the sons of Brahma Deva, with the task of identifying the best of the Trinities.
First Bhrighu went to Sathyaloka to test Brahma Deva. Brahma Deva at that time was sitting with his consort Saraswathy Devi. Brahma Deva was not happy with Brighu as he entered his room without prior permission or not even knocking at the door. Brahma Deva’s anger and displeasure came out of his dominance on Rajasa (Passion) Guna. Bhrigu cursed Brahma Deva that no one would worship him during Kali Yuga. It seems this is the reason why the temples for Brahma Deva are not very popular in this age.
Bhrigu went to Kailash to test Rudra or Mahadeva. Mahadeva was also sitting with Parvathi Devi, his consort, on his laps and having romantic fun. Rudra also did not like Bhrigu’s encroachment without prior permission and reflected his angry response to Bhrigu. Rudra or Shiva is dominant with Thamo Guna (Ignorance or Darkness) and that is why his reflection was like that. Bhrigu cursed Lord Mahadeva that let his devotees worship him only in the Linga Form. And that is why we worship Shiva Linga or the Phallus of Lord Shiva.
At last Bhrigu went to Vaikunda, the abode of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu, in Palazhi or Ksheerabdi (Milky Ocean or the Cosmic Ocean). Lord Vishnu was sleeping, as usual, on Anantha, the thousand hooded serpent. Bhrigu kicked on his chest with his leg. Vishnu got up and apologized to Bhrigu for not receiving such a great seer properly with due hospitality as he was his guest. Also Lord Vishnu committed to him that he will hold the foot print of Bhrigu on his chest where he kicked as decoration for this body and will be known as Sree Vatsa. Vishnu is also known as Sree Vatsa Ankita Vakshasa Bhooshana (Meaning the one who is decorated with the mark of Sree Vatsa on the chest). This response was due to the dominance of Satwa Guna (quality of Blissfulness or Goodness).
Of course Bhrigu concluded that definitely Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is superior to the other two of the Trinities. So Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is considered to be sleeping most of the time and hence it is not a new or rare concept.
We reached Kathmandu by 3:00 PM. But as our Travel Agency have notified of our late arrival, lunch was available for us at Crowne Plaza Hotel
The rest of the day was for preparing for next day’s Kailash trip. The following items are needed for the trip.
Once you start your Kailash trip there is no facility to wash clothes and therefore we must carry enough clothes for at least fourteen days. Let me provide a list. These are minimum required on a standard basis. You should carry whatever additional personal items specifically required for your private and personal use. General Requirements are listed below:
Medications
Do not forget to carry all medications, if any, the least for a month
Food/Snacks Items
It is advisable to carry some nuts and bars. I found cranberry extremely useful. It is better to keep mixed nuts and cranberry in separate small zip locks. Carry Power Bars and Almond Thins in large quantity so that we can share.
Bags
1) Back Pack (water proof) Provided by Travel Agent (we can hold it after the trip)
2) Duffel bag Provided by Travel Agent (to be returned after the trip)
Clothing/Dresses
Clothing should be normally light capable of providing enough warmth, preferably in dark colors so that dirt may not be visible
1) Track suits – 2
2) Shirts (long sleeved) made of wool or flannel
3) Towels – 2 minimum
4) Socks – 8/10 pairs cotton and 2/3 pairs woolen
5) Scarf/Muffler - woolen – 2 minimum
6) Gloves – cotton 2 pairs and woolen 1 pair
7) Sandals with back strap – 1 pair
8) Shoes with rubber sole for better grip – 1 pair
9) Hiking Boot – 1 pair
10) Under garments – 12 minimum
11) Skirt for ladies (good for open toilet) – 2
12) Shawl – 1
13) Sweater (woolen with high neck) – 1
14) Monkey Cap – 1
15) Windcheater with hood (water proof) – 1
16) Trouser (Pants) – loose fitting – 2
17) Thermals – Leggings – 2
18) Thermals – Vests – 2
19) Night wears – 2
20) T–Shirts – 2
21) Down Jacket – 1 (will be provided by Travel Agency but to be returned)
22) Windbreaker – 1
23) Walking stick – 1
24) Torch light – 1
25) Camera/s
26) Wet and Dry wipes, Tissues, Napkins, creams, etc. (Napkins were provided by Travel Agency but you may need more supply)
Shopping
As I was from New York I had most of the items except the walking stick. So I bought a walking stick.
There are many shops where you can buy all above items. But make sure you bargain well. Hefty bargain is available in established stores also.
Currency and Exchanges
The main currency is Nepalese Rupees. Indian Rupees are also accepted in most of the stores. But remember for each Indian Rupees you get approximately 1.6 Nepalese Rupees. A large number of money exchanges are available. You can easily exchange US Dollar or British Pound or Euros in the street. They do not ask for passport or details. I am not sure how well regulated these exchanges are but you get decent exchange rates here. Please shop around for better rates. Some of the Agents would even be approaching at your hotel for exchanging foreign currency.
Major part, almost one hundred percent, of trip is in Tibet. Tibet is under China and the currency in use is Chinese Yuan. Horse man/woman and coolies are to be paid in Yuan. Drivers and guides are paid by the Travel Agent. For horseman and coolies and for any out of pocket expense and to pay some tips you will need Yuan. Travel Agency will arrange Exchange also. Please remember that Yuan is not available in the street exchanges.
Baggage/Packing
Dresses required for twelve/thirteen days and snacks needed from second day onwards were packed in the duffle bag, clearly labeled with my name and left in front of my room as instructed by the agency. They will carry and deliver to our room where we stay the next day. Our other suit cases with rest of the luggage were labeled with our name and Crowne Plaza Room Number to be kept in the locker room to be returned while we come back. Other valuable items like rings, chains, cash or Travelers Checks, etc. are not advisable to be carried along. We can keep our valuable under safe custody in the hotel locker and can carry the key with us. Most hotels have this facility.
So in the morning of 15th August we all nineteen in the group along with Badri, Kedar and couple of other crews started out in bus to visit Sleeping Vishnu and Nagarkot. This was dual purpose visit, first to visit the temple of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu and then to go to Nagarkot with an altitude of about 7000 feet for a brief trekking for a couple of hours and for acclimatization. As we were to start of our Kailash Parikram trip the very next day we have been given a Diamox tablet to reduce the effect of altitude sickness. As mentioned earlier daily consumption of a minimum of three liters of water is must throughout the trip.
Budha Nila Kantha literally means Old Blue Throat (Neck). This is not to be confused with Nilakanda, who is Sri Mahadeva. This Budhanilkantha Temple is located within Kathmandu Valleys at the base of Shivapuri Hill. This is about eight miles to the north of Kathmandu city.
This is a seventeen feet long sculpture of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu in sleeping pose in a tank of about forty three feet long. It is believed to be made in 500 AD and hence more than one thousand five hundred years old. This Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is Jalasayan that is lying in water with four hands and with all Vishnu Chinhas. The traditional signs of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu are: Sankhu (The Conch shell), Chakra (The Disk), Gadha (The Club) and Padma (The Lotus). Here Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is lying on the coiled Anantha Sesha (The thousand hooded serpent Anatha literally meaning endless) with eleven hoods (we can imagine how impracticable it is to make a thousand hoods). Devotees are supposed to touch on the feet of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu and worship. It is beyond words to express the gratification we receive from visiting and offering our obeisance to this open temple. There is no sanctum sanctorum for this idol. This sleeping Vishnu is open to all at all the times.
Sleeping Vishnu is not a new concept. But other than the one in Thirumeyyam of Tamilnadu I have not heard of any other temple with deity as sleeping Vishnu. But definitely this is the largest one and carved in black rock. Vishnu is always sleeping. I will narrate a story here. Once all the Devas (the gods of heaven) and great Seers of heaven were debating who among the Trinities (Thrimurthis) are the best. They could not really come to a conclusion. So they entrusted Bhrighu, one of the sons of Brahma Deva, with the task of identifying the best of the Trinities.
First Bhrighu went to Sathyaloka to test Brahma Deva. Brahma Deva at that time was sitting with his consort Saraswathy Devi. Brahma Deva was not happy with Brighu as he entered his room without prior permission or not even knocking at the door. Brahma Deva’s anger and displeasure came out of his dominance on Rajasa (Passion) Guna. Bhrigu cursed Brahma Deva that no one would worship him during Kali Yuga. It seems this is the reason why the temples for Brahma Deva are not very popular in this age.
Bhrigu went to Kailash to test Rudra or Mahadeva. Mahadeva was also sitting with Parvathi Devi, his consort, on his laps and having romantic fun. Rudra also did not like Bhrigu’s encroachment without prior permission and reflected his angry response to Bhrigu. Rudra or Shiva is dominant with Thamo Guna (Ignorance or Darkness) and that is why his reflection was like that. Bhrigu cursed Lord Mahadeva that let his devotees worship him only in the Linga Form. And that is why we worship Shiva Linga or the Phallus of Lord Shiva.
At last Bhrigu went to Vaikunda, the abode of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu, in Palazhi or Ksheerabdi (Milky Ocean or the Cosmic Ocean). Lord Vishnu was sleeping, as usual, on Anantha, the thousand hooded serpent. Bhrigu kicked on his chest with his leg. Vishnu got up and apologized to Bhrigu for not receiving such a great seer properly with due hospitality as he was his guest. Also Lord Vishnu committed to him that he will hold the foot print of Bhrigu on his chest where he kicked as decoration for this body and will be known as Sree Vatsa. Vishnu is also known as Sree Vatsa Ankita Vakshasa Bhooshana (Meaning the one who is decorated with the mark of Sree Vatsa on the chest). This response was due to the dominance of Satwa Guna (quality of Blissfulness or Goodness).
Of course Bhrigu concluded that definitely Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is superior to the other two of the Trinities. So Lord Sri Maha Vishnu is considered to be sleeping most of the time and hence it is not a new or rare concept.
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| Sleeping Vishnu at Budhanilakantha Temple of Shivapuri hill base |
Thus with the blessings of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu we continued our trip to Nagarkot. Though it was only 22 miles it took us more than two hours to reach there as there was some diversion on the route. But the trip was fully enjoyed by all of us as some of the ladies in the group started singing Bhajans (glories of gods). After four or five Bhajans, Badri suggested me to sing a Bhajan in my language, Malayalam. I rather recommended that I may talk about Sreemad Bhagawatham or Ramayanam or Sreemad Bhagawad Gita. They all agreed the choice of subject being at my discretion.
I started talking about Ramayana. Basically I talked about the relevance or the significance and or the need for the Seventh Incarnation of the Ten Incarnations (Desa Avatharas) of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu as Lord Sri Ramachandra Swamy. I spoke for a long time starting from the very beginning of creation of creation of Brahma Deva in order to establish the need for this Seventh Incarnation. Each and every one of the team was keenly listening and praised that it is very devotional and informative. But some of them told that it was too long and some others suggested that I could have spoken either in Hindi or in Gujarati as some of the members could not fully understood what I told.
I am elaborating this here because it led to very tremendous change in the course of my life. A couple of them, especially my roommate Subhash Varma and Pankaj Patel asked me if I could spend more time during the trip explaining some of the stories in general or about Ramayanam and Bhagawatham. During the trip, as we were fully dedicated for Kailash Parikram, we have nothing else to accomplish. So during the entire trip while we were off the road i.e. while we were in the hotels or trekking or travelling in the bus we talked about Ramayanam and Bhagawatham. With Pankaj I must have spoken for about forty hours and were able to satisfactorily complete all the cardinal points of both the Incarnations of Lord Sri Ramachandra Swamy and of Lord Sri Krishna Bhagawan. I have to mention that Harshad Patel also was an active participant in some of the talks. With Pankaj we concluded with an understanding that his specific questions from Sreemad Bhagawatham can be referred to me and I will try to provide him with explanations to the best of my ability and knowledge. I thank Pankaj for the inspiration and prompting he provided to me to concentrate more on Sreemad Bhagawatham. Now I am with a project on hand to write about the whole Sreemad Bhagawatham as directed my brother Gopikkochattan and a couple of my colleagues and friends. My retired life is very fulfilling now with this project.
We are not sure how and why the twists and turns in our life so happens. I consider that my Kailash Trip as so very fulfilling that not only I was able to accomplish the Mansarovar and Kailash Parikram successfully with the blessing of Lord Sri Maha Deva and Lord Sri Maha Vishnu but it also paved the path of my life with a very purposeful and fulfilling project for the rest of my life by getting involved into Sreemad Bhagawatham. It is very gratifying and I am obligated to my friends and relatives and above all to my wife, Thanky, for never even one time, burdening with family responsibilities. I do not think I would ever been able to do any of these things unless she boldly took up all the family responsibilities on her shoulder with the support and guidance of Anand, our son, and Asha, our daughter.
Our accommodation at Nagarkot was excellent but the breakfast on the next day morning (i.e. on Thursday, 16th August 2012) was not to the mark. After breakfast we had to trek for about two hours on our way back to Kathmandu. So we trekked up on the hill. As we were trekking on road, though not tarred, to up hills it was not very strenuous. Also remember we had the Diamox and enough water. As it was only about 7000 feet none of us had any breathing trouble either. Thus our first mini test was very successful. All of us passed the test. Our bus was waiting on the main road to drive us back to Kathmandu. This was very encouraging for all of us as the first impression is considered as the best impression.
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| Sun Rise at Nagarkot |
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| Sun Rise at Nagarkot |
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| From our hotel at Nagarkot |
The rest of the day was for preparing for next day’s Kailash trip. The following items are needed for the trip.
Once you start your Kailash trip there is no facility to wash clothes and therefore we must carry enough clothes for at least fourteen days. Let me provide a list. These are minimum required on a standard basis. You should carry whatever additional personal items specifically required for your private and personal use. General Requirements are listed below:
Medications
Do not forget to carry all medications, if any, the least for a month
Food/Snacks Items
It is advisable to carry some nuts and bars. I found cranberry extremely useful. It is better to keep mixed nuts and cranberry in separate small zip locks. Carry Power Bars and Almond Thins in large quantity so that we can share.
Bags
1) Back Pack (water proof) Provided by Travel Agent (we can hold it after the trip)
2) Duffel bag Provided by Travel Agent (to be returned after the trip)
Clothing/Dresses
Clothing should be normally light capable of providing enough warmth, preferably in dark colors so that dirt may not be visible
1) Track suits – 2
2) Shirts (long sleeved) made of wool or flannel
3) Towels – 2 minimum
4) Socks – 8/10 pairs cotton and 2/3 pairs woolen
5) Scarf/Muffler - woolen – 2 minimum
6) Gloves – cotton 2 pairs and woolen 1 pair
7) Sandals with back strap – 1 pair
8) Shoes with rubber sole for better grip – 1 pair
9) Hiking Boot – 1 pair
10) Under garments – 12 minimum
11) Skirt for ladies (good for open toilet) – 2
12) Shawl – 1
13) Sweater (woolen with high neck) – 1
14) Monkey Cap – 1
15) Windcheater with hood (water proof) – 1
16) Trouser (Pants) – loose fitting – 2
17) Thermals – Leggings – 2
18) Thermals – Vests – 2
19) Night wears – 2
20) T–Shirts – 2
21) Down Jacket – 1 (will be provided by Travel Agency but to be returned)
22) Windbreaker – 1
23) Walking stick – 1
24) Torch light – 1
25) Camera/s
26) Wet and Dry wipes, Tissues, Napkins, creams, etc. (Napkins were provided by Travel Agency but you may need more supply)
Shopping
As I was from New York I had most of the items except the walking stick. So I bought a walking stick.
There are many shops where you can buy all above items. But make sure you bargain well. Hefty bargain is available in established stores also.
Currency and Exchanges
The main currency is Nepalese Rupees. Indian Rupees are also accepted in most of the stores. But remember for each Indian Rupees you get approximately 1.6 Nepalese Rupees. A large number of money exchanges are available. You can easily exchange US Dollar or British Pound or Euros in the street. They do not ask for passport or details. I am not sure how well regulated these exchanges are but you get decent exchange rates here. Please shop around for better rates. Some of the Agents would even be approaching at your hotel for exchanging foreign currency.
Major part, almost one hundred percent, of trip is in Tibet. Tibet is under China and the currency in use is Chinese Yuan. Horse man/woman and coolies are to be paid in Yuan. Drivers and guides are paid by the Travel Agent. For horseman and coolies and for any out of pocket expense and to pay some tips you will need Yuan. Travel Agency will arrange Exchange also. Please remember that Yuan is not available in the street exchanges.
Baggage/Packing
Dresses required for twelve/thirteen days and snacks needed from second day onwards were packed in the duffle bag, clearly labeled with my name and left in front of my room as instructed by the agency. They will carry and deliver to our room where we stay the next day. Our other suit cases with rest of the luggage were labeled with our name and Crowne Plaza Room Number to be kept in the locker room to be returned while we come back. Other valuable items like rings, chains, cash or Travelers Checks, etc. are not advisable to be carried along. We can keep our valuable under safe custody in the hotel locker and can carry the key with us. Most hotels have this facility.
This is a deep spiritualism and I admire that. And most useful and practical details about this wonderful experience.
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