Friday, 31st August 2012.  Sixth Day of Third Leg of Our Trip.  Chitwan to Janakpur 

After an early breakfast we proceeded from Chitwan to Janakpur.   This was the longest bus trip we had throughout our tour.  The arrangement was to have packed lunch served in the bus itself.  Pankaj and I used the whole tour time in discussion of the incarnation of Lord Sri Krishna Bhagawan and about Sreemat Bhagawatham.  I believe it was purely due to the blessings of Lord Kailash Natha and Lord Sri Maha Vishnu incarnated as Lord Sri Krishna Bhagawan and Lord Sri Ramachandra Swamy and all other deities of our discussion that we were able to conclude this divine discussion to our satisfaction.

By evening we reached Janakpur.  Our first visit was to Sri Dhanush Mandir.  Here is where Shree Ramachandra Swami broke the Thryayyambaka or Thryambaka Bow or Shiva Dhanush and won Sitadevi as his Consort – and that is why this place is called Dhanush Mandir.  This is located at Dhanusha Dham.

The belief is that when Sri Rama broke the bow a portion fell here and another portion went into heaven and the tail portion went to Dhanushkoti near Rameswaram and the name Dhanushkoti is derived like that. 
I think it is quite appropriate to narrate a story related to this Shiva Dhanush at this time.  Once there was a duel between Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu to determine who is more powerful.  Viswakarma, the architect of Heaven, constructed the strongest ever bow for Lord Shiva.  But Lord Shiva lost the fight and he wanted to abandon the bow.  But being a rare and strongest weapon he gave it to Janaka Maharaja, his ardent devotee, as a gift.  Janaka kept it in his palace and worshiped daily.  One day he noticed while little Sita was playing ball game the ball went underneath the bow.  She single handedly lifted the bow and took the ball out. Janaka was noticing this incident.  That is why he announced that whosoever wanted to marry Sita should lift the bow. Sri Rama was not only able to lift the Shiva Dhanush and was also able to break it in a snap while trying to string it.  

The local people are maintaining the area with utmost reverence and pay homage and offer worship daily.  What we see here is the mark of the bow on the ground.  They have a small boundary of a foot high in a rectangle shape.  They claim that mark grows little by little but noticeable by bare eyes.  It is interesting to visit this place and listen to the stories explained by the priest cum guide.

From there we went to the hotel as it was late in the evening.  Our hotel was another twenty miles from Dhanushadham.  We had booking at Hotel Manaki International at Janakpurdham.  Janakpurdham is the main city/town of Janakpur in Mithila state of Nepal.  Janakpurdham is a crowded town with a number of temples, market place and administrative offices.

We are now at Janakpur (where Sitadevi was believed to be born).  Here is where Shree Ramachandraswami broke the Thryayyambaka Bow and won Sitadevi as his Consort - which is called Dhanush Mandir

Thursday, 30th August 2012.  Fifth Day of the Third Leg of Our Trip - Chitwan Gardens

We had arrangement to go for an Elephant Safari.  Our lodge was very close to the booking center.  After breakfast we walked down to the center.  Elephant safari is also a memorable event.  Four of us were on one elephant.  As soon as we entered into the jungle we had the luck to see a few rhinos in a pond or pool of water.  They were not even ten feet away from us.  We were confident that they are not going to charge on us as we were on top of the elephant.  I never even imagined I can ever in my life be so close to wild animals in open jungle with no covers or shields.  Chitwan is popular for Bengal Tigers.  Bengal Tigers are now considered as an endangered species.  We did not have the chance to see any Bengal Tigers during our trip.  And Chitwan is the only place you can see Bengal Tigers.  It seems they must be further inside the forest.  We had the luck to see some very long tailed monkeys, leopards, bison or wild buffaloes, etc.  It was definitely a fun filled two hours safari.  If you get a chance do not miss it.

After the safari we came back to our lodge for lunch.  This was the birthday of Badri.  There was a surprise party with a cake cutting for him.  Thanks to the restaurant for making all the arrangements and keeping it as a surprise.  It was definitely fabulous to have such a party in the valleys of Himalaya.

After lunch we visited the Elephant Breeding Center in Chitwan National Park.  From our lodge it was a good walk of over half an hour and then to have canoe ride in Chitwan Lake.  This canoe ride was like a water safari.  We had seen many water snakes and crocodiles.  We were told that crocodiles used to steal sheep and claves from the neighborhood and also could be dangerous to the riders.

After the ride with a brief walk of about fifteen minutes or so we were at Elephant Breeding Center in Chitwan National Park.  This is one of the only two Elephant breeding centers in the world.  We were lucky to see twin calves.  The center is very informative, educational and extremely interesting.  We also visited quite a few elephant sheds. So many elephants in one place as a family with calves that too including a twin was definitely a varied experience.  Though there were many visitors you may never feel crowded due to the vastness of the area.

We also had scheduled for a visit to the local village at Chitwan.  I personally had a very nostalgic feeling about the area.  While I was through the ridges of the paddy field to a small local temple in the middle of the field I was really taken back to late 1950’s as if I was going to Khandakharnan Kavu in my place in Kerala.  The paddy fields, the coconut trees, mango trees, tamarind trees, etc. all looked exactly like those of my own village about fifty or sixty year ago.  I felt it would definitely have been a terrible loss had I not visited this village. Visiting local village was also in our tour package.

We are at Chitwan National Park

A Folk Dance/Drama We Attended on August 29th Night (1)

A Folk Dance/Drama We Attended on August 29th Night (2)

Local Drama/Dance Troupe in action -This is not just an entertainment attraction for the tourists but also an acceptable way to maintain the customs and traditions as most in action are youngsters - Concluding Episode - see audience participation - at Chitwan

We are getting ready for an Elephant Safari in Chitwan Forest (1)

We are on elephant safari - These Rhinos are not even ten feet away from us - at Chitwan National Park (1)

We are on elephant safari - These Rhinos are not even ten feet away from us - at Chitwan National Park (2)

We are on elephant safari - four of us on one elephant -  at Chitwan National Park

We are on elephant safari - have look at elephant track -  at Chitwan National Park 

We are on elephant safari - We completed our safari -  at Chitwan National Park 

Tourist information center at Chitwan

A decent restaurant in Chitwan

We did not miss to celebrate the birthday of Badri

We even cut a cake to celebrate Badri's Birthday

We are now on a Boat Safari in Chitwan Lake (1)

We are now on a Boat Safari in Chitwan Lake (2)

Paxa posing for a picture

Kamini and Dhani

See the twin baby elephants (twins)  -  at Chitwan (1)

See the twin baby elephants (twins)  -  We were lucky to see two twin pairs at Chitwan

Our group is waiting for the boat after our visit to Elephant Mating Center at Chitwan

A local village temple in the middle of paddy fields in Chitwan 

A nightly view of Chitwan

See the Full Moon 

  

Wednesday, 29th August 2012.  Fourth Day of Third Leg of Our Trip

Subhash Varma, my roommate, was scheduled to leave us as he had other commitments.  So we bid bye to him in the morning.  Pakkabhai and Dakshaben also had to bid bye to us.  So our troupe was shrunk but with a decent size of sixteen.

Subhash was my room mate for the whole Kailash Manasarovar Parikram for eighteen days

This was another important day in my life as this was the day I visited Devghat or Devighat, Balmiki or Valmiki Asram and other holy places.  Let me confess until I read the brochure from Earthbound Expeditions I did not know that Sitadevi disappeared or passed away at Devighat. My impression was that it happened at Ayodhya on the banks of Sarayu/Saraswathy River where Sri Rama Deva conducted the sacrifice.  When I read this I definitely wanted to visit Devghat or Devighat, Valmiki Asram and Janakpur as much as I wanted to have the Mansarovar Kailash Parikram.  Having gone there I did not want to miss the chance to visit Chitwan National Park also.  Even if I was alone I should have covered all these places.
  
 After breakfast we started our trip by bus from Pokhara hotel to Devghat.  It was about two and a half three hours drive of about seventy miles.  Devghat is at the confluence of Trishuli and Kali Gandhaki rivers.  After getting off the bus we had to walk through a suspension bridge.  And after crossing the bridge it is about fifteen minutes walk to reach the Sree Ram Mandir and Sree Sankat Mochan Hanuman Mandir.  The fifteen minutes walk would look like you are walking inside thick forest with tall crowded trees.  I definitely enjoyed the walk.

When I visited the temple for darsan my mind and body were equally refreshed.  I felt the place as very serene and holy.  A true devotee of Lord Sri Ramachandra Swamy would definitely cherish the stay for the rest of his/her life.

We also visited a Vedic School here which is being run in the true traditional style of old Gurukul.  Inmates in saffron dresses are staying within the compound.  You would definitely be reminded of lines:

“Sarvarthu phala pushpadyam nana mriga ganair yutham
Kananam jathi vaira rahitha janthu poornam
Nandana samanam ananda thanadyam muni
Nandhana veda dhwani manditham anupamam”

Agasthya Sandarsanam of Adhyatma Ramayanam when you listen to the husky recitals of the inmates of the Vedic School from those surroundings.

Then we walked down to a cave believed to be the one where Sitadevi disappeared or taken away by her mother Bhoomidevi at her own request to the nether world (Pathal) as an affidavit confirming her chastity to the assembly.  The icon or a shrine of Sitadevi is in the Mandir in the cave.  The roaring sound of the rivers may be scary and may remind you of the sequence of events on the concluding day of the Yenjas conducted by Lord Sri Rama Swamy.

The way towards the cave is risky and please be careful while stepping down as well as climbing back up.

With a short walk you can reach the cave where the great sage Valmiki wrote the Adi Kavya (First Poetry) the well known Valmiki Ramayanam.  It is interesting to see the animation of the great sage Valmiki writing the Adi Kavya in that cage.  It is on the banks of Kali Gandhaki or Krishna Gandhaki River which is also known as Narayani River.   The area is full of reeds and bamboo trees and always filled with the sounds of the breeze from the leaves.  The river flows in a fury but as it is curved inside in front of the Asram it is very calm.  We were warned not to get into the water as the area is very deep and extremely dangerous.  But by all means the most appropriate place to write such a grand epic.

I think at this point it would be injustice to continue my travelogue without writing at least a few sentences about this Adi Kavya.  The famous Adi Kavya is known to all or at least the first two words.

“Maa Nishada Pratistham Tvamagamahsāsvati Samaa
Yat Kraunchamithunaadekam Avadhi Kaamamohitam”

The original meaning of these lines is: Hey hunter you will never attain permanent peace because you shot to death one of the birds which was romantically involved with its female mate.  

Whereas the same lines when it is used as Moola Kavya of Ramayana the meaning is:

Oh Lord, Sri Rama Swamy, (Lakshmipathi = Lord Sri Maha Vishnu) you have established the highest of the eternal fame ever possible (incomparable name and fame) by killing demon/devilish Ravana (referred as the male bird in aadi kavya) who was ignorantly and illusorily involved in romantic affairs with Mandothari (referred as the female bird in aadi kavya).

When I came to know that I was going to have an opportunity to visit the place where this great sage Valmiki believed to have been living and wrote this Adi Kavya, I decided that at any cost I should grab this opportunity and see this most divine place as well.

Visiting these places is also a life fulfilling ambitions as that of Kailash Parikram for me. If you have time please also visit Pandavanagar or The Someswar Kalika Temple and Fort which we could not visit as we had scheduled to go to Chitwan Gardens.    It is believed that Pandavas used to live here also while they were in exile.

From Devghat it was less than half an hour drive to Chitwan National Park.  We had booking at Jungle Safari Lodge.  Accommodation was comfortable.  Our guide was also ready.  After a late lunch in the evening our tourist guide took us for a walk in the National Park.   This park has been declared as World Heritage Site by UN.  The grasslands and the forest areas extend to over one thousand square miles.  North West boundaries of the Garden are Narayani – Rapti River.  Walking inside the forest carefully looking for snakes and avoiding hot dung of elephant is definitely a varied experience.

As Subhash has left I had an independent room for the rest of the tour.

Khulla Disa Mukt Kshethra between Pokhara and Valmiki  Asram

Rammandir at Devghat (bleived to be the place where Sitadevi ended her worldly life and went to her abode of Vaikunda) - Near Valmiki Asram

Narayani-Rapti river at Chitwan National Park

Some of our group members strolling at Chitiwan Gardens - On the side it is Narayani - Rapti River

Our guide explains about Chitwan National Park

Wah! What an evening view from Chitwan National Park - Declared by UNESCO to preserve specifically Bengal Tigers and Asian Rhino

Elephants another attraction of Chitwan National Park.  See the calf sleeping near mom

Tuesday, 28th August 2012.  Third Day of Third Leg of our Trip

Our flight from Jomsom to Pokhara was early in the morning.  Our flight was Tara Air.  A few members of our team had to leave hotel as early as five in the morning to catch six o’clock flight.  Airport is only about fifteen minutes walk from hotel.  For these local flights you do not have to be there more than half an hour in advance.  And the uncertainty and cancellation of the flights are very frequent and wind and cloud being the major controlling factors.  The flight took off only around seven with the first batch from our group.  We were scheduled for seven o’clock flight.  But we took off around 8:30.
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Jomsom – Pokhara flight was also very exciting.  You can have clear view of trekking path of Annapurna Mountain ranges.  Please see the pictures in the link for more details.

But all of us where ready for our Pokhara sight-seeing around ten in the morning.   There are many tourist attractions in Pokhara.  Naturally the Himalayan Ranges are all very attractive.  The stunning panoramic view of Annapurna range can be viewed from anywhere in Pokhara.  We had only one day to spend in Pokhara.  So we had to segregate into two different groups as some of them planned to have a boat ride in the famous Phewa Lake and go to the island temple of Barahi.

I along with few others opted out as we wished to try for Paragliding.  In the morning we visited a few temples.  There was a platform on the road with the idols of Lord Sri Ganapathy, Shivalinga, Nandikeswar and Nagadevta.  Though there is no temple and sanctum sanctorum it is very convenient for devotees for darsan and worship of their favorite deities during their trip without any deviation.  It is a tourist attraction too being in the middle of the road.

Next we visited Devi’s fall.  Off late it is also known as Davis Fall because one Mrs. Davis a Swiss woman died while she was taking her bath and her dead body was recovered after a few days from the fall.  This happened in the year 1961 and since then it was called as Davis fall also.  The flashing water from the fall may drench you well enough and is good for a splashy shower. In Nepali it is called Patale Chhango meaning Nether Fall or Fall of the Underworld.  There is a large Durga Devi Temple here for those who wanted to visit and have a darsan.  Another main attraction is goddess Maha Lakshmi installed under water near Devi’s fall.  Nepalese believe that your offerings of coins thrown on the idol will touch the idol only if you are a true devotee and a lucky one.

Then we went to Mahadeva Gupha (Cave) temple.  The cave is full of bats and steps are slippery.  Be careful if you go there.  It is very near to Devi’s fall.  At the bottom of the cave you can have darsan of Ganapathy and Shivalinga.

Also we visited Radhakrishna Mandir of Pokhara.  This is typical Nepalese style temple constructed on the top of a hill.  We had the darsan of Lord Sri Krishna Bhagawan with his most favorite play mate Radha.  From the temple you can also have the most panoramic view of Annapurna range.  This temple has got vast fully tiled open compound.  One of its kind I have seen in Nepal and for that matter anywhere in the world as other Indian and Nepalese temples have mini sanctum sanctorum for other deities around the main deity.

Paragliding

After visiting the Radhakrishna temple we went for a Paragliding.  Nine of us really wanted to go for this most adventurous and exciting experience of life.  They take in a batch of three at a time.  Paragliding is also very uncertain like the flight to Everest.  It is really controlled by the Sun god, Wind god, Cloud god, Weather god, and then your luck also.

Minal, Pankaj and I were in the first batch.  And unfortunately that was the only batch that got a chance to paraglide on that day.  From the booking office you will be taken by a jeep to the top of hill called Sarangkot from where the Paragliding takes off.  Sarangkot is almost five thousand feet above sea level.

It is definitely and undoubtedly a marvelous and adventurous, but scary by all means, experience. The pilots are well experienced and the experts in the field.  Once you are buckled on the chute you have to run and pull with good force till the edge of the cliff for the balloon to get airborne.  You have to really pull very hard as the wind would be pulling you back.  And pilot will be pushing you from behind to the front.  A few helpers also will support you to pull forward.  It is very possible that you may bend your legs and could even fall down a couple of times before you take off.  Each time you may have to start from the very beginning because at least you have to run for a thousand feet for more to get airborne.

Once you are airborne then you are flying like a free bird in the sky with no holds.  The feelings and excitement can never be put into words.  You are already about three thousand feet above the ground level then you are going to fly another thousand five hundred to two thousand feet up again.  I was tightly holding my both hands on the strings/belts.  The pilot asked me to completely release my hands.  I was not sure but let one of my hands free.  I did not feel any difference in and after another minute or so I let my other hand also freed.

I did not believe I was still on air and still flying.  I was thrilled.  It was amazing.  It was awesome!  I was really flying up in the sky.  On all sides I had the mesmerizing view of the Himalayan Ranges, The Everest, The Annapurna, The Dhavalgiri, The Kailash and The Gauri Shankar looking so majestic.  All these I saw with open eyes in open sky with no hindrances of glass panels or any other covers like that of an airplane or a copter.  The feeling was I had wings.  I looked down and I could see Phewa Lake and scenic green paddy fields.  I was in ecstasy of enjoying the beauty of the nature as it is from open sky.

Pilot asked me to scream and shout if I was really thrilled and excited.  He told me not to have any inhibition of any sort in expressing my emotions.  I knew I was in good hands and he had total control.  He asked me if I was ready and not scared of then we could do some acrobatics.  I had no clue what he was going to do but told him yes.

Oh My God!  What he did was simply mesmerizing magic.  He turned me a full ninety degree left and then a full ninety degree right.  I was truly holding my breath.  Then he made full one hundred eighty degree nose dive.  I thought my stomach came out.  Because I felt so I knew I did not had giddiness.  A couple more turtle turns and he asked me whether I was OK and how I felt it.  I told him it was Fantastic! It was Marvelous!  However, I would definitely be too short of words in explaining the thrilling and excited feelings and emotions.  The only thing I can tell you is that you have to experience it by yourselves at Pokhara in order to get some idea about that experience.
   
The photos and videos cannot reflect the true excitement and the emotions going through your mind.  I truly felt we had the blessing from Lord Kailash Natha.  Otherwise this could not have been possible.  This was one of its’ kind.  It was a thirty minutes nonstop super mesmerizing magic.

Of course when we landed I fell down on the sandy ground and was dragged about hundred feet or so.  There were a few boys to help.  I will plead with all that if you get an opportunity do not miss it.  It is worth the risk.  As both your hands are free you can also take the pictures of your performance but you do not have to do it as the pilot would be taking quality still photos and videos of the entire performance.  Within ten or fifteen minutes they will prepare a CD for you at a nominal charge.  I would recommend you to purchase the CD rather than depending on your photos/videos.

After Paragliding the same pilot drove us back to the booking office and then to our hotel also.  This Paragliding was the most exciting and adventurous feat in my life.  And I do not expect another one to surpass this either.

Cockpit of Buddha Air flying us from Jomsom to Pokhara

Scenic Himalayan Valleys and Rivers En-Route Jomsom - Pokhara (1)

Scenic Himalayan Valleys and Rivers En-Route Jomsom - Pokhara (2)

Ganpathy - Sivlinga - Nandi - Nagdeva at Pokhara

MInal & Pankaj at Davis Fall (Pathal Chhango  = underworld fall) at Pokhara

At Davis Fall (Pathal Chhango = underworld fall) at Pokhara

At Davis Fall (Pathal Chhango = underworld fall) at Pokhara - Seven from our group

This is at Davis Fall (Pathal Chhango) - devotees will try to throw coins at the idol- Belief is that only the lucky ones can hit the coin on the idol

Devi's Fall (Patale Chhango) at Pokhara 

Radha Krishna Temple at Pokhara - Traditional Nepali Style Architecture

Minal, Pankaj and I were lucky to experience a life time experience of Para Gliding. This is definitely an unmatched one time life experience to fly above the scenic Pokhra Valley from Sarangkot hill to land at Phewa Lake. Without the mercy of the Sun god, the Wind god and the Rain god this adventure cannot not take place. We three of our team were blessed by all these gods. Of course this is a blessing of Kailasanathan (Lord Maheswara) as it was post Mansarovar Kailash parikram (circumambulation).

Pankaj and Minal ready for Paragliding

Once in a Life Time Experience of flying above the Scenic Pokhra Valley from Sarangkot hill to land at Phewa Lake (1) 

Once in a Life Time Experience of flying above the Scenic Pokhra Valley from Sarangkot hill to land at Phewa Lake (2) 

Once in a Life Time Experience of flying above the Scenic Pokhra Valley from Sarangkot hill to land at Phewa Lake (3) 

Once in a Life Time Experience of flying above the Scenic Pokhra Valley from Sarangkot hill to land at Phewa Lake (4) 

Once in a Life Time Experience of flying above the Scenic Pokhra Valley from Sarangkot hill to land at Phewa Lake (5)