(Krishnavilas) 

Badrinath – Kedarnath Trips

[Contributors: Gopinadhan Pillai, M. Prasanna Kumar, Dr. Geethamony Amma, M. Bhaskara Kumar (Bhasy) & M. Gopa Kumar (Gopi)]

[Special Thanks to Anand for Creating this Blog and Posting]

Char Dham or Four Abodes

Badrinath, for that matter all the “Char Dham” or “Four Abodes” of gods or goddesses, is located on the great Himalaya Mountain.  “Char Dhams” are 1) Badrinath, 2) Kedarnath, 3) Gangotri and 4) Yamunotri.  All of them are located in the newly formed (November 9, 2000) North Indian State of Uttarakhand which is also known as Dev Bhoomi or Land of God.   [These are actually referred as “Chota Char Dham” or Small or Minor Four Abodes as the Major Char Dhams are: 1) Badrinath, 2) Rameswaram, 3) Puri and 4) Dwaraka.  But for the purpose of this article, I will use Char Dham instead of Chota Char Dham.  Please note Badrinath is included in both the lists.]  Every year Char Dham trip starts only after Basant Panchami day normally falls in third or fourth week of April and closes on the Vijaydasmi day which normally falls in October end or November beginning.    

Of these four Dhams Kedarnath is at the highest altitude of 3,583 meters (11,755 feet).  Badrinath is at a height of 3,133 meters (10,279 feet).   Gangotri is at level of 3,100 meters (10,170 feet) and Yamunotri at 3,291 meters (10,797 feet).  

Badrinath is the most popular of all four Dhams.  Badrinath Temple is dedicated to Lord Sri Maha Vishnu and of course the presiding deity is Vishnu.  It is definitely one of the most visited pilgrimage centers of India.  I was fortunate to visit this temple three times in three different seasons.  Let me give a little bit of background and the purpose of my first visit to Badrinath.

Background of First Visit to Badrinath

Our father, Sri Balakrishna Pillai, had visited Badrinath along with my elder brother, Sri Gopinadhan Pillai.  After two years of the first visit, he expressed his desire to go there once again.  My brother tells me that it was so blissful for him and father to sit at a corner of the temple premises and chant Vishnu Sahasra Namam, most of it from his memory.   During the visit my father had expressed his wish to float or immerse his mortal remains in Alaknanda River.  

Badrinath

The temple Badrinath is located on the banks of Alaknanda.  Also, it is believed that the sacred river Saraswathy is flowing under the earth below Alakananda.  River Saraswathy is very mystic as from its starting point at Mana Village it roars down for just about a kilometer or about half a mile and meets with Alakananda beneath the earth.  That’s it.  Then it springs back up hundreds of miles away from there at Allahabad.  Nowadays some expedition teams are working to find out the course of the River. 

Beliefs and Formalities

The belief is that if the mortal remains are floated or immersed in Alaknanda at Badarinath then his or her soul would attain salvation and therefore there would not be another birth on this earth for that soul.  And once if the last rites are performed in Alaknanda, then we do not have to perform annual rites thereafter.  

Normally last rites are to be performed by the eldest living son and as such my brother was scheduled to go to Badrinath.  Unfortunately, after scheduling the trip my brother had an emergency and could not undertake the trip.  Therefore, I to undertake this for our father, as was planned earlier.  My brother feels that since I was not present for performing the last rites for our father at the time of his death his soul would have desired that I should perform the immersion of his mortal remains in holy waters.

(Preparation for Sradhddha Pooja)

(Reading Bhagawatham by son of Ramachandran Nair)

Our Team and Trip

Our group consisted of my Amma/Mother (Srimathi V.K. Bhargavi Amma (late)), Vallyammavi (Smt. Jegadamma [late]), Cousin – Appachi’s or Achan’s sister’s son - (Sri Gopala Pillai (late)), Kunjammavi (Smt. Anandavally V Nair), Cousin – Kochachan’s (Achan’s younger brother’s) son - (Sri Prasnna Kumar), Cousin - Kochachan’s son - (Sri Gopa Kumar), and I.  Gopa Kumar (Gopi) joined us from Delhi and all others started from our home at Karunagappally.   Manu (at that time he was four years old), elder son of Prasannan, also accompanied us to Delhi.   

(Vinob, Anu, Mini, Mohanan, & Achyuthankochattan)

(AchyuthanKochattan and others )

(With Achyuthankochattan & Amma)

Varkkala Papanasam Beach

Last week of April 1998 after completing the traditional rituals we unearthed and collected the mortal remains kept in two earthen pots or urns and went to Papanasam beach at Varkkala, Kerala.   Papanasam is a popular beach designated to float or immerse mortal remains in the Ocean (Arabian Sea).  At Varkkala also there is a Janardhana or Vishnu temple upon the hills from the seashore and considered to be very holy.   Accordingly, we floated one pot at Papanasam.  

Kollam – Delhi – Via Gazhiabad to Haridwar

With the other pot or urn we, six plus one, boarded train from Kollam or Quilon to New Delhi.  As Prasannan had already booked berths for us our trip was comfortable.  The train journey was for two and a half days.  Gopi and Bhasy (younger brothers of Prasannan) were at the station to receive us.  We went to Bhasy’s residence at Gazhiabad.  We had dinner with special dish of Muthiracharu (a dish made of lentils).  After dinner we, seven of us including Gopi, took overnight train from New Delhi to Haridhwar.  Gopi had already booked the train tickets.  Next day early morning we reached Haridwar.

Railway Dormitory had been booked for us.  After completing our daily routine, we went to Holy River Ganga and had ablutionary bath.  

[Origin of Ganga from Puranas and Ithihasas] 

[The Holy Ganga or Ganges or River Ganga, after she emits Vishnu-pada, first comes to 'Devayana' - galaxy of crores of glittering stars known as Akasha-Ganga - Milky Way.  According to Sreemadh Bhagawatham the origin of Ganga is logically narrated.  During the incarnation of Vamana when he was measuring three feet of land donated by Mahabali the third step even crossed Sathya Loka, the abode of Brahma Deva.  Brahma Deva knowing that it is the toe of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu washed it from the water in his Kamandalu or Water- pot.  The sanctified water dripped off from the feet of Vishnu is flowing as Swarnnadi or River of Heaven.  This is also called as Deva Ganga or Akash Ganga.  This mythical Ganga reveals strange similarity with the river Ganga as she flows on the earth.  As in the myth, Alakananda, with at least six significant tributaries, the confluence of which constitutes Ganga, joining her, Dhauliganga at Vishnu Prayaga, Pindar at Karna Prayaga, Nandakini at Nanda Prayaga, Mandakini at Rudra Prayaga and Bhagirathi at Deva Prayaga, appears to be the Ganga's principal stream, though with Bhagiratha-myth being more deeply rooted into popular mind the status of the main stream is more often attributed to Bhagirathi. Bhagirathi is formed of snow-melt mainly at 7756 meters high Gangotri glaciers, to which other glaciers, especially those at peaks like Nanda Devi and Kamet, substantially contribute. Bhagirathi begins descending down at Gomukha, a place some 18 kilometers ahead of Gangotri. The river gets its name as Ganga after Deva Prayaga. At Deva Prayaga Alakananda, with six main streams being her tributaries, and Bhagirathi, the longest stream, join each other rendering it difficult to assign to either of the two status of the principal stream.]

Mansa Devi Temple

After that we visited Mansa Devi Temple by ropeway.  Mansa Devi Temple is located on the top of Bilwa Parvat or Bilwa Mountain on the southern end of Himalaya mountain ranges.  This was a thrilling experience for all of us.  It is recommended to visit this temple if you have time and convenience.  After the trip we went to the dormitory and collected our baggage and went to the bus depot to board the bus to Badrinath.

Haridwar – Rishikesh – Rudra Prayaga

(Kunjammavi, Amma, & Valyammavi) 

In 1998 there were not many bus/jeep/car services available as of today.  The only regular bus service from Haridwar to Badrinath was that of Uttar Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation (UPSTDC).  Tourism development of Himalayan regions was under the responsibility of Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited (GMVN) a division of UPSTDC.  They did not have a daily service as there were not enough passengers.  I think it was on either alternate days or once in three days. 

Though our booking was from Haridwar on that particular day there was no service from Haridwar.  And office of GMVN was not at the bus depot.  But there was an official of GMVN at the depot.  When we were looking for the bus, this official told us that on that particular day the bus was starting from Rishikesh, and we have to board from Rishikesh instead of Haridwar.  Also, he told the bus would be leaving in forty-five minutes.   

From Haridwar to Rishikesh bus depot is about thirty-five miles.  We were really short of time and taxis were also not available like today.  We were squeezed into a taxi with another seven passengers more.  And there were no mobile phones at that time.  We stopped at a Public Telephone Booth and notified GMVN of probable delay.  The GMVN official was not very co-operative either.  But he suggested that we go to the next stop where most of the passengers would be boarding.  Though the stop was another fifteen minutes drive from the depot we could get an additional hour as the departure time from the first stop was after an hour.  They assured to retain the reservation for us until that stop.  From Haridwar to Rishikesh the trip is relatively on the plane lands as we are travelling from one thousand to one thousand eight hundred feet altitude.    Though the road was bumpy the journey with panoramic view of the valleys of Himalaya and through herbal plantations was very refreshing.   We were not really bothered or concerned squeezed into a taxi.

Thank God we reached there in time and boarded the bus.  The bus was with double engine to climb up on the mountains.  We were seventeen pilgrims, driver, guide and a helper in the group.  The maximum capacity of the bus was twenty passengers.  

Rudra Prayaga

We had a brief halt at Srinagar.  [This Srinagar is in Uttaranchal and different from the more popular Srinagar of Kashmir.]  Then we drove to Rudra Prayaga.  Rudra Prayaga is the confluence of rivers Alakananda and Mandakini.  Alakananda starts from nearby Badrinath and Mandakini starts from nearby Kedarnath.  There are four other Prayagas located between Rishikesh and Joshimath.  They are Devaprayaga, Karnaprayaga, Nandaprayaga and Vishnuprayaga.    Devaprayaga is the confluence of Bhagirathi and Alakananda, Karnaprayaga is confluence of Alakananda and Pindar, Nandaprayaga is the confluence of Nandakini and Alakananda and Vishnuprayaga is the confluence of Alakananda and Dhauli Ganga.  

We were scheduled to stay overnight at Rudra Prayaga.  As our package was inclusive of accommodation our stay was in UPTC sponsored hotel.  At that time that was the best in the town.  After keeping the luggage in our rooms, we all went to the Holy Prayaga for a formal ablutionary tharpan.  Went back to the hotel and had dinner and slept well after a long day’s trip.  Overnight stay was comfortable.  

Next day morning after completing daily rituals we went to the Prayaga for a formal puja and worship.  After that we had breakfast from the hotel and then continued our trip.  From Rudra Prayaga we were supposed to go Badrinath in one day.  But in the morning, we learned that due to some disruption we could be blocked at Joshi Mat or Joshimath.  The details were not known at that time.  As the telephone or satellite services were not very prevalent, especially in the Himalayan ranges, we could get the news only at the spot.  So, we drove to Joshimath.  

Joshi Mat or Joshimath

After reaching Joshimath we got the news that the rod is completely damaged and washed off for a couple of miles away from Joshimath due to an avalanche.  Therefore, no traffic could move from Joshimath to Badrinath – Kedarnath or from Badrinath – Kedarnath to Joshimath.  We were relatively safer because we were able to get accommodation in the UPTC sponsored hotel as the passengers returning from Badrinath – Kedarnath side and booked accommodation in the same hotel could not reach and hence rooms were available.  The conditions of the passengers stranded on the other side was really sad as they had to spend more than thirty six hours inside the vehicle most of the time as it was little cold outside, especially at night.

We were supposed stay overnight at Joshimath on our return trip.  But our guide suggested that as we had sufficient time, we could spend the time visiting the places we were scheduled to visit while returning.  Therefore, our guide directed us to visit Narasimha Temple, 

Jyothirmath and Auli Ski Track on that day.  

Narasimha Temple at Joshimath is very popular and famous.  Narasimha or Man-Lion or Lion-Man or Beast is the fourth incarnation of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu of the ten incarnations or Desavathara.  The purpose of this incarnation was to kill the most horrible and terrific demon called Hiranyakasipu and to bless Prahlada who was the son of Hiranyakasipu and a staunch devotee of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu.  We visited that temple.  

Jyothirmath is also known as Joshimath.   Jyothirmath is one of Mathas or Monasteries established by Adi Sankara Acharya Bhagawat Padar.  This is the monastery or Math at north.  The other three monasteries are Sringeri at south, Puri at east and Dwaraka at west.  

Our visits to Narasimha Temple and Jyothirmath were truly divine experiences.  I will definitely write more about Adi Sankara Acharya separately as he is the true reviver of Sanathana Dharma or Eternal Religion which nowadays is loosely called as Hinduism.  Adi Sankara Acharya is the deviser and founder of Adwaitha Sidhddhantha or Philosophy or Monotheism.   I could never be justified at this point not to mention that who was Adi Sankaraacharya.  Therefore, let me scribble some basic facts about this universal preceptor or Jagat Guru.

[Adi Sankaraacharya] 

[Adi Sankaraacharya is the greatest Omniscient known to the world in this age.  He was a treasure house of knowledge of all the times this age.  His teachings are relevant to all people of all times.  Let us try to know and learn more about this great manly sage.

I humbly and devotedly prostrate this great Master of the Universe.  We have not heard or known, or we can ever even think of having another personality like Sri Sankaracharya.  As we learn more about Sri Sankaracharya, we will definitely accept that he is a true incarnation Lord Siva, the Jagatguru or the Universal Preceptor, and an authority of ultimate knowledge.  Let us examine the succession list or lineage of Universal Preceptors (Guru Parampara) of the Omniscient:

Daiva Parampara or Lineage of God Precepts

1) Sada Siva (According to Saiva belief Sada Siva is the Supreme God who is the creator of Lord Vishnu.) 

2) Narayana (Lord Maha Vishnu)

3) Brahma (the creator of Universe and the species therein)

Rishi Parampara or Lineage of Sages Preceptors

4) Vasishta (the preceptor of Sun dynasty and well known as the Kulaguru of Sri Rama) 

5) Sakthi (the son of Vasishta)

6) Parasara (the son of Sakthi and more familiar as the father of Veda Vyasa)

7) Veda Vyasa (the son of Parasara and the one who edited all four Vedas and all Puranas – Mythologies and the one wrote the great Maha

Bharatha and Srimat Bhagawatham) 

8) Sukacharya or Suka Brahmarshi (son of Veda Vyasa and the one who advised Srimat Bhagawatham to Pareekshith Maharaja in seven days and enabled him to attain ultimate salvation)

Manava Parampara or Lineage of Human Preceptors

9) Gowdapadacharya (the precept of Govindabhagawatpadacharya and the first known proponent of Advaita Vedanta or the philosophy of non-dualism)

10) Govindabhagawatpadacharya (known as the precept or guru of Adi Sankaracharya or Sri Sankarabhagawatpadacharya)

11) Adi Sankaracharya or Sri Sankarabhagawatpadacharya (the proponent of Advaita or Visesha Advaita Siddantha i.e. non-dualism or special or qualified non-dualism)

Though I have segregated this lineage of universal preceptors or Jagatgurus as Daiva, Rishi and Manava parampara for clarity the list has to be considered as one and all the eleven gurus belong to the same lineage of universal preceptors or Jagatgurus. The first three belong to the Kritha or Sathya Yuga (Parasurama was the incarnation at this age).  The next three belong to Thretha Yuga (Sri Rama was the incarnation at this age).  The next two belong to Dwapara Yuga (Sri Krishna was the incarnation at this age).  And the last three belong to Kali Yuga (Kalki is the incarnation of this age and we are now in Kali Yuga).

We essentially need to know that Sankaracharya is listed in the lineage of preceptors along with Lord Vishnu, Brahma Deva and Lord Mahadeva or Parameswara.  The importance and divinity of Sankaracharya, though known to us as a saintly man believed to be lived for only a short period of thirty two years during the latter of eighth century and the beginning of ninth century AD (i.e. 788 to 820 AD), can easily be established when we learn that Brihaspathy, the preceptor of gods  (Deva Guru), Sukracharya, the preceptor  of demons (Asura Guru) and Viswarupa, the accepted preceptor of Lord Devendra in order to defeat the demon enemies with the advice of Narayana Cavacha to offset and resist the Mrita Sanjeevani of Sukracharya, could not find a place in this lineage or parampara of Jagatgurus or Universal Preceptors. Definitely we are bound to accept that Sankaracharya’s position was superior to even Brihaspathy, Sukracharya and Viswarupa.

If the incarnation of Sankaracharya had not taken place we are not sure how we would have been able to acquire the invaluable and immeasurable knowledge about the Vedas, Upanishads, Brahma Sutra, and even about the Bhagawat Gita.  It would have simply been impossible for us to even imagine whether we could have ever even acquire any small fraction of knowledge of all these complex philosophies, mythologies, Vedas, Upanishads, Bhagawat Gita, etc. without the lucid and clear narrative commentaries provided by Adi Sankaracharya as a gift to this Universe.  Irrespective of the caste, creed or religion the Vedic, Upanishadic, Puranic and Scientific knowledge Adi Sankaracharya imparted to the Universe during this age of Kali Yuga is incomparable. 

Several different dates have been proposed according to different legends, opinions, versions and records about the time when this great master, Adi Sankaracharya, was born and lived in this universe.  It is considered, as most acceptable now, that Sankaracharya was born in 788 AD/CE and lived until 820 AD/CE according to mainstream scholastic opinion based on the records maintained at Sringeri Sarada Pitha.  Sringeri Sarada Pitha is well known for maintaining unbroken records of all its Acharyas (Preceptors belonging to the Sankaracharya lineage).  This time period of 788 to 820 AD, the thirty-two years, has a general consensus as the life period of the great Master of the Universe Adi Sankaracharya.  

However, it is undisputed that he was born at the then called village Sasalam (later named and hence known as Kalady) on the banks of the then called river Purna (now known as Periyar).  His father was Sivaguru and mother was Aryamba.  The Brahmin couple Sivaguru and Aryamba was childless for long time after their marriage.  They were staunch devotees of Lord Vadakkumnatha, Lord Mahadeva/Parameswara/Sankarabhagawan.  One day in her dream Aryamba had a vision of Lord Vadakkunatha (Lord Siva or Mahadeva) and told her that he would incarnate in the form of their first child.  Sankara was born after this vision and therefore Sivaguru and Aryamba happily named their first child as Sankara.  It is believed that Sankaracharya is none other than the incarnation of Lord Mahadeva/Vadakkumnatha.  This Thrissur Vadakkumnathan temple is most popular as the famous Trissur Puram, the famous festival, with the largest number of ornamented elephants, with Chendavadyam continuously for two hours by the most famous masters in that field, etc.  It is also believed that Adi Sanakaracharya attained Videha Mukthi (release or freedom or liberation from embodiment) at Vadakkumnatha temple.  

[This is for the time being for this great Universal Preceptor.]

Trip Continues…Joshi Mat or Joshimath

After visiting Jyothirmath or the monastery of Adi Sankaraacharya we visited Auli Ski Track.  Auli, we went by Cable Car.  In India Auli Cable Car service is located at the highest altitude.  The viewing platform is located at around 9000 feet height.  We were told by October there would be five to seven feet snow.  And it is the second-best Skiing Track in the world.  As it was not crowded at the time we had a wonderful view of the track as well as the Himalayan range from the viewing platform.  

Joshimath to Badrinath 

The next day morning we were told that we could check out as the Indian Military has a constructed a make-shift bridge.  But we had to walk through the hanging bridge as vehicles were not permitted to carry passengers on the bridge.  And again, only one vehicle was permitted at a time.  So, vehicles were on a convoy system.  

By reaching the other side I saw a huge white mountain.  [Normally until middle of May there would not be any vegetation growth, and you would be watching huge barren black rocks.  The magnanimity of these rocks is amazing and beyond words.  Until I watched Himalayan ranges, I was always wonderstruck at the magnanimity of oceans.  Since I had seen the Himalayan mountain ranges, I was wonderstruck at the magnanimity of the rocks there.  Many a times, I was wondering that all the huge concrete jungles of Manhattan could have easily been completed by an infinitesimally small portion of one of the rock pieces.]  My understanding and concept of avalanche was fall of snow or ice from mountain top and it would be flowing or moving.  So, when our guide told that was the avalanche I was really stunned but ridiculed of my ignorance.  

Actually, the make-shift bridge took us almost about half a mile away from the avalanche.  Our view was only from a distance of about a mile or so.  I also noticed from many different parts of that white-mountain streams of water flowing.  I was explained that is melted snow and it is very dangerous that with a small wind the entire avalanche of the whole mountain could move down and could wash away the entire things in its course.  The original bridge and the road completely collapsed because of the avalanche.  It is an awe awakening phenomenon of the nature and we can understand only when we see it.  An avalanche could be as devastating as that of a Tsunami.  So, we all had a lifetime experience of a live avalanche.     

Our bus also came to the other side, and we continued our trip to Badrinath.  As mentioned earlier for hours on one side I was seeing this huge mountain of thick black barren rocks to the height of about seven-eight thousand feet.  And on the other side I was seeing valleys to the depth of six or seven thousand.  The bus was climbing up the mountain like for every three feet forward one foot up.  And it took us around five hours at that time to reach from Joshimath to Badrinath.  

The changes in Badrinath within the last seventeen years are immense.  Many of the hotels we see now were not there at that time.  Our accommodation was arranged in a new hotel where the construction was progressing at that time.  Nowadays there are a few hotels with A/C.  But I do not know whether there are any hotels with heating systems even today.  

Badrinath 

We reached Badrinath around five in the evening.  My mother definitely wanted to go and have a Dersan the same evening and that too for the Deparadhana or the evening Puja which was from six to seven in the evening.  

Our hotel was about a mile away from the temple and it was raining with sleets and was cold.  We did not carry any umbrella.  There were no taxis or jeeps available.  So, we suggested that Amma can be carried by a coolie in the basket.  There were a lot of coolies available as that was a popular way of transportation at that time in Badrinath.  Amma refused to be carried and insisted that she had to walk to the temple.  We all walked to the temple and had the Darsan.  On the way back we had some snacks from the wayside hut/restaurant.  We were back in the hotel fully drenched.  

Amma was shivering due to the severe cold which she was never exposed to sleet in the past.  There was no heater or heating system.  Amma being an asthmatic patient we were deeply concerned.  Throughout the night I hugged her with blanket, and she was able to sleep comfortably.  What a blessed satisfaction I was able to take care of Amma without any difficulty on that day.

[Badrinath – Brief History and Legends] 

[Let me now write a little bit about the historic information about Badrinath Temple.  Most of the information was provided by our guide during the trip from Haridwar to Badrinath.  He also supplied us with a couple of leaflets.

It is amazing to note that Badrinath Temple was installed by Adi Sankaracharya.  I have already written a little bit about Adi Sankaracharya, the omniscient and the universal preceptor.  At the age of four he could recite all the four Vedas.  At the age of twelve Adi Sankaracharya took up Sanyasa life by renouncing material life and left home.  Sankaracharya had many disciples even at that young age.  

Both Gauthama Buddha and Mahavir Jain were born as Hindus.  Gauthama Buddha established Buddhism and Mahavir Jain Jainism.  These religions were established as an offshoot of Hinduism in the early fifth century BCE (Before Christian Era).  But for the next one thousand plus years both these religions were established and became superior to Hinduism.  Many of the Hindu temples were taken over by either Buddhists or Jainists and established as either Buddhist or Jainist Temples.  

One of the legends is that originally, in the ancient times, Badrinath was a Vaishnava Temple and Lord Sri Maha Vishnu was consecrated.  It is believed that the Jainist followers removed the idol of Maha Vishnu and threw it in the river Alakananda.  

Alakananda starts from Sathopanth Glacier and Bhagirathi Kharak Glacier at about thirteen thousand feet high altitude and is about fourteen kilometers away from Badrinath.  And Badrinath is about ten/eleven thousand feet high altitude.  So, we can imagine force of the current of Alakananda near Badrinath.  The whole route of Alakananda from its source until Devaprayaga it is full huge mountain like rocks.  The force of the current could always be anywhere from twenty to two hundred miles per hour.  At the time we were there the water was ice cold.  If you fall into the river the rest assured that you could be frozen to death in a few minutes.  

It is simply mind boggling and beyond the power of our imagination to recognize that Adi Sankaracharya could walk all the way from Kerala, the southwestern end, to Badrinath in the Himalaya, at the northern side of India almost over thirteen hundred years ago.  History says he has walked over all across, not only south - north but also east – west, India three times and taught many disciples and attended many scholastic debates and participated in many Logical, Philosophical and Vedic discussions and discourses.  It is further stunning that he accomplished all these within a span of twenty years as he lived only for thirty-two years.  I think we do not need any other evidence to confirm that Adi Sankaracharya was an incarnation of God at this age.  Whether one believes or not one has to accept that Adi Sankaracharya was with superhuman powers.

Adi Sankaracharya was aware that the idol of the temple was thrown in Alakananda River.  If the legend is true, he jumped into the river, dove and recovered the idol of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu.  Even the roaring sound itself very scary I do not think anyone would dare to jump into Alakananda anywhere nearby that area.  

Adi Sankaracharya arranged to construct sanctum sanctorum of Badrinath Temple in the style of Kerala temples.  After installing the idol of Lord Sri Maha Vishnu, he also arranged to perform daily poojas by a Namboothiri, Kerala Brahmin.  This tradition still continues and even today, after thirteen hundred years, the chief priest of Badrinath is mandatorily a Kerala Brahmin.  This evidences that there is truth in this legend.  

Badrinath is not the only major temple revived by Adi Sankaracharya.  Pasupathinath Temple of Kathmandu, Nepal was also recovered by Adi Sankaracharya.  Here also until very recently the chief priest was traditionally Namboothiri.  It seems in 2009 during the time of Maoist government priesthood of the temple has been transferred to local Brahmins.   Adi Sankaracharya was the true reviver of Hinduism which was almost at the verge of destruction by his time.  

Badrinath is the most divine and sacred place in India.  In the Vedas and Puranas and Ithihasas Badrinath has been mentioned.  Let me quote a few.  Maha Vishnu’s incarnations as Nara and Narayana popularly known as NaraNarayanarhees used to observe their penance and austerity in their monastery Badrinath.  Kapila Vasudeva, another incarnation of Maha Vishnu, also had his monastery at Badrinath.  Kapila is the founder and proponent of Sankhya Sasthra or Sankhya Philosophy.  In Adhyatma Ramayana, Sri Rama sent his devotee Swayamprebha to Badrinath to perform austerity to attain ultimate salvation or moksha. ]

 

Badrinath – Puja and Worship Formalities

Evening Deepaaradhana is very popular and lasts for one hour.  The ideal offerings one should perform other than worshipping Lord Sri Maha Vishnu during Deepaaradhana are to recite Bhagawat Gita and Vishnu Sahasra Namam.  My brother, Gopikkochattan, reminded of Achan chanting Vishnu Sahasra Namam from his memory at Badrinath Temple while they both visited together.  Incidentally, my brother was fortunate to visit Badrinath twice along with Achan.  My brother had visited Badrinath five times so far.  He should be able to talk more authoritatively than me about Badrinath Trips.  The significance of those offerings is because it is believed that Vyasa Bhagawan wrote Maha Bharatham at Vyasa Guha or the Cave of Vyasa located nearby Badrinath Temple.  If time permits and if convenient, try to visit this place.  During my first tour we could not visit Vyasa Guha. 

Badrinath – Contd…

The next day morning at around six we got up and found that it was very cold, and we did not have hot water inside the bathroom.  Our hotel being still under construction they have not started any meal services either.  But just in front of the hotel there were couple of tea vendors.  They offered us hot water service and charged only twenty-five Paisa (nowadays even beggars in India do not take twenty-five or fifty paisa) per bucket of water.  We got sufficient hot water and completed daily routines lavishly.  We could not take tea or coffee as Amma was very particular to visit the temple without taking any drinks.  Also, it is not permitted to have any drinks or food before completing the last rites.  

Performance of Last Rites for Achan

The last rites are performed at the banks of Alakananda.  There are many professionals available there to help us to perform the last rites formally.  We did engage a professional and performed the last rites.  In our area normally ladies do not perform last rites.  As the Nair community of Kerala used to follow matrilineal system the nephews are entitled to perform the last rites rather than the sons.  As system has since been changed to patriarchal nowadays sons are performing last rites rather than nephews.  But as my Achan did come across both matrilineal and patriarchal systems son and nephew performed the last rites.  Therefore, Gopalan Kochattan and I performed the last rites and rituals for Achan.  After completing oblations and rituals we floated the pot containing the mortal remains of Achan into Alakananda.  Also, it is mandatory for all those who visit Badrinath have to renounce one vegetable or meat item for the rest of our life.  I renounced Chundakka or Turkey Berry.

Though the ghat is constructed near the temple is at a projected turning of the river where the force of the current is naturally reduced but in spite of that none can enter into the river.  For safety and security thick iron chains are hooked into concrete pillars to hold onto for those who want to step into water.   By strongly holding on to the chain we could just enter one step into the water.  The water was ice cold, and we could not dip our leg into the water for more than a few seconds.  

Badrinath – Hot Water Spring

It is really amazing that when we go up a couple of hundred feet above Alakananda to the temple there is natural hot spring.  It is called Tapta Kund or Hot water Tank or Pond.  The temperature of the water in the hot spring could be as high as 60/65 C or 140/150 F.  One cannot enter straight into the hot spring as your body could be burned.  What a contradiction.  But in the hot spring you can slowly enter and have a complete bath.  Many people may enjoy staying in the hot spring for little while it is as comfortable as a steam bath.

Badrinath Darsan – Second Day after the Rituals

After the oblation and rituals, we went to the temple and had a Darsan.  As the season was not in full swing yet there was no huge crowd of devotees.  Therefore, we had a peaceful Darsan at the time of morning Deparadhana and Puja.  

After completing all the rituals Amma told me that she is very satisfied and relieved as we were able to immerse the mortal remains of Achan and was able to have divine Darsan at the Temple.  And she said that I should make sure her mortal remains are also immersed in Alakananda.  Though in my mind I was sure that I would do it I told her that I cannot promise that as we are not sure who goes first.  Though she scolded me for saying like that she was sure that I would definitely do that.  And our third visit to Badrinath with my brother was for that purpose.  

Badrinath – Post Rituals and Temple Darsan

After the Darsan we had some breakfast and went back to our hotel.  We were free for the rest of the day as our schedule return was next day morning.  

As it was cold and either jeep service or any other conveyance was available, we could not visit Vyasa Guha during this first trip.  We roamed around the temple vicinity for a couple of hours and had our lunch.  After lunch we took rest for a couple of hours in our hotel and went back to the temple.  Buckets and mugs are available at the hot spring.  We all took bath in the hot spring and then went for the evening Deparadhana and Puja.  In the evening it was a little bit more crowded.  

Badrinath Temple in Winter Season

The presiding deity of Badrinath Temple is Lord Sri Maha Vishnu.  Maha Vishnu is one of the Trinity who is responsible for sustenance of maintenance of the universe and species therein.  The shrine is in black stone or Shaligram, and it measures around a meter or three and one third feet tall.  It is believed that this shrine is Swayam Vyektha meaning Self Manifested.  Though Badrinath Temple remains closed for six months during winter roughly from end of October to end of April an Akhanda Jyothi or Eternal Lamp is kept burning during this time also.  Also, the flower that is kept in the temple during wintertime would be kept afresh when temple opens in the next season.  This is considered to be miracles of the Badrinath temple.  The legend says that these formulas were devised by Adi Sankara about thirteen hundred years ago.  I was told that some herbs are used to prepare the wicks.  Also, instead of oil ghee from cow’s milk is used as the fuel.  Some scientific explanation is that no carbon dioxide is produced from this combination and also only very little oxygen is required for the formula.  There are many flowers of Himalayan top stay afresh for many months.  It is considered to be most pious and divinest opportunity for one to get a chance to view the Akhanda Jyothi of Badrinath on the day the temple is reopened after winter break.     

I can assure that once if you visit Badrinath you would like to visit again and again.  That is the divinity of this holy temple on the Himalayan Mountain.

Return Trip Badrinath to Deva Prayaga 

We all the seventeen pilgrims returned on next day morning.  As our trip is on the downhill of Himalaya it was faster.  Originally, we were scheduled to stop at Joshimath and visit Narasimha Temple and Jyothirmath of Adi Sankara Acharya and overnight there.  But as we have already accomplished that after lunch at Joshimath we proceeded to Deva Prayaga and stayed there overnight.  Devaprayaga is the confluence of Bhagirathi and Alakananda.  Of course, we had ablutionary Tharpan in the evening and next day morning at the Prayaga.  

Return Trip Deva Prayaga to Gazhiabad (Delhi)

From Deva Prayaga the journey was relatively smoother.  By noon we reached Rishikesh.  At Rishikesh we visited Triveni Ghat, crossed Lakshman Jhula and visited Tryambkeswar Temple.  Of course we had some shopping also at Rishikesh.  After lunch we continued the trip and reached Haridwar by evening.   As it was late in the evening and there were no bus or train service available from Haridwar to Delhi on that day we engaged a taxi.  Gopalan Kochattan was sick but managed without any major problems.  We reached the home of Bhasy at Gazhiabad late in the night.  We had dinner from his home and slept in his official guest house nearby his quarters.

Jaipur Trip (Post Badrinath) 

Next day morning we had breakfast in the guest house.  Of course, Bhasy brought it from home.  Gopi had to go to work as he wanted to take another day off on the next day to see us off.  We had a free day and Bhasy was gracious to arrange a tour to Jaipur.  Gopi could not join us.  Gopalan Kochattan was not feeling well but the thrill of travelling prompted him to join us.  So, the whole Badrinath team short of Gopi along with the addition of Bhasy, Gayathri, Manu, Vishnu (son of Bhasy/Gayathri.  He might have been two years at that time.) and a neighbor girl of Bhasy proceeded to Jaipur by Taxi.  As Gazhiabad – Jaipur road is straight the trip was smooth.  Almost about halfway to Jaipur Gopalan Kochattan felt sick and could not continue.  Prasannan volunteered to stay back to take care of him, and they both stayed back and took rest in hotel.  

In 1998 there was not this much rush.  It could be hard for a present-day tourist to imagine how it was some twenty-eight years ago.  We visited Amber Fort and Palace.   We also visited the famous City Palace and Hawa Mahal or Palace of the Winds.  Though Amma and both Ammavis were really tired their will power and spirit enabled them to walk through Jaipur city and enjoy the beauty of Pink city.  Naturally, we had some shopping.  We had meals from a South Indian Restaurant and returned.  On the way back we picked up Prasannan and Gopalan Kochattan and reached back in the guest house late at night.  

Return Trip from Delhi to Home (Karunagappally, Kollam) 

Next day we all along with Gayathri and Vishnu we returned by train to Karunagapply and reached back after two and a half days.  So, we accomplished our first Badrinath trip successfully.  The trip was truly amazing and rewarding.  It was because of the blessing of Achan and Lord Sri Maha Vishnu or Badrinarayan.          

Second and Third Trips to Badrinath

I will write the travelogues of other two visits to Badrinath with more details.